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Metal Detecting Shovels & Diggers

A good digger decides how fast you recover a target and whether the ground looks untouched when you leave. The shovels, serrated diggers and trowels here are built for detecting: sharp enough to cut turf and roots, strong enough for clay and rocky ground, and shaped to lift a clean plug. Pair one with a pinpointer for the fastest recoveries.

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Original price $80.00 USD - Original price $80.00 USD
Original price
$80.00 USD
$80.00 USD - $80.00 USD
Current price $80.00 USD

Stainless Steel Serrated Digger — Double Edges for Clay and Rocky Ground

Metal Detector Pros

Double serrated edges grip instead of skidding on dry clay, stony soil and root-bound turf, and work in either direction without turning the tool i...

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Original price $80.00 USD - Original price $80.00 USD
Original price
$80.00 USD
$80.00 USD - $80.00 USD
Current price $80.00 USD
Original price $60.00 USD - Original price $60.00 USD
Original price
$60.00 USD
$60.00 USD - $60.00 USD
Current price $60.00 USD

Steel Digging Tool for Metal Detecting — Sharpened Edge, Contoured Handle

Metal Detector Pros

A reinforced steel blade with a sharpened edge that cuts a plug lifting out whole and dropping back in, leaving the ground looking untouched. Clean...

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Original price $60.00 USD - Original price $60.00 USD
Original price
$60.00 USD
$60.00 USD - $60.00 USD
Current price $60.00 USD

Hand digger or shovel?

  • Hand diggers and trowels: small, light and precise. The right tool for lawns, parks and anywhere you need a neat, small plug. Some parks only allow small hand tools, so check the rules.
  • Long-handled shovels: dig faster and deeper with less strain on your back. Best for fields, relic sites and deep targets where you have permission to dig bigger holes.

What makes a good metal detecting digger

  • Stainless or hardened steel: it holds an edge and won't bend on stones the way a garden trowel does.
  • Serrated edges: grip roots and dry clay instead of skidding off them, and cut in both directions.
  • Depth markings: help you judge how deep a target is, which teaches you to read your detector.
  • A comfortable handle and a holster: you'll dig hundreds of holes in a season.

Dig clean, leave no trace

Cut a horseshoe-shaped plug on three sides, fold it back on its hinge, recover the target, then fold it closed and press it down. Done well, nobody can tell you were there, and that is how you keep permission to hunt. Always fill every hole. For beaches, use a sand scoop instead. New to detecting? Our beginner's guide explains what else a first kit needs, or browse all gear and accessories.

Look after your digger

Wipe the blade after each hunt, especially after wet clay or salt, and dry it before storing. A few strokes with a file keeps the edge sharp enough to slice turf cleanly. A holster or sheath protects the edge, and protects you, between digs.

Questions we get asked

What is the best digging tool for metal detecting?

For parks and lawns, a serrated stainless hand digger. For fields and relic sites, a long-handled detecting shovel. Many detectorists carry both and choose by site.

Can I use a garden trowel for metal detecting?

You can, but most bend on stones and roots and make ragged holes. A purpose-made digger cuts a cleaner plug and lasts far longer.

How do I dig a hole without damaging the lawn?

Cut a three-sided plug a few inches deep, fold it back like a flap, recover the target, then fold the plug back and press it flat. Keep the roots attached and the grass recovers quickly.

Are shovels allowed in public parks?

It depends on the park. Many limit you to small hand tools, and some ban digging entirely. Check the local rules or ask the parks department before you go.

How deep should I dig for a target?

Pinpoint first and dig only as deep as needed. Most coin-sized targets in parks sit within the top several inches. Use your detector's depth reading as a guide, and recheck the hole with a pinpointer before digging further.

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